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The edges of lawn are cut back annually.
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Cutting Edges
by Ginny Stibolt
It's winter and most of the leaves have dropped from the deciduous trees.
This is just one of a number of reasons why it's the time of year when I
make my annual tour around the edges of our mowed areas. Here are
some other reasons:
1) The leaves need to be removed from the grass so it's not smothered and
those leaves also provide an excellent mulching along the edges.
2) We haven't mowed the yard since October and now is the perfect time to
pull those pesky tall weeds such as the Asiatic hawksbeard (Youngia japonica).
You've probably seen it--it looks kinda like a dandelion, but the stalks are
longer, a few small yellow flowers are grouped at the top of each stalk, and it doesn't have much of a taproot. It's an
annual and the more of them I get out now, the fewer I'll have (ha, ha!) in
the future.
3) This time of year is perfect weather for working in the yard.
4) The grass, weeds, and leftover leaves from this project produce
just the right mixture for starting a new compost
pile. Here's a link to a related podcast on fallen
leaves.
Managing the Edges
Here's my cutting edge strategy. I remove grass runners from the
wooded and mulched areas using a shovel or claw and bend back as many
runners as I can toward the lawn. Murphy's Law of lawn
care is that grass may not do well in an area, but when you remove it and
install a mulched bed instead, the grass will try to repopulate the very
same area that it hated before. Cutting the runners will
stimulate sprouting, but folding them back
and weaving them into the lawn does not. After removing the wayward grass, I tamp down the exposed soil by walking on it and
then I rake a thick layer leaves over the soil. I again walk
along this area to compress the leaves and to keep most of them from blowing
away.
I do this annually, so the plants in the wooded and mulched areas are
usually larger than the previous year and hang over the edge of the
grass. I remove another six inches to a foot of grass on each trip around the
yard. If I keep this up, pretty soon the lawnmower will have a lot
less to do!
We've reduced the care needed for the lawn by replacing
difficult-to-mow sharp corners with gentle curves that our riding lawnmower can
easily negotiate. Broad, gentle undulations in the borders of the lawn provide
interest in the overall landscape, but too many tight turns are more difficult
to mow, and may make the garden area look too chaotic. While we haven't installed the plastic edging along most
of my lawn edges, doing so would probably reduce the maintenance even more.
One of the objectives of a more sustainable lawn is to reduce the use of
string trimmers and leaf blowers. One of my friends asked why I just
didn't use a leaf blower instead of hand raking. My answer was that I
was reducing the lawn, getting more exercise, pulling weeds, removing all
the leaves and other stuff from the turf grass (that the leaf blower would
leave behind), plus it's sooo much quieter than the 90-decibel racket
produced by leaf-blowers. And then there's the little thing about the
high amount of air pollution. Some two-stroke engine leaf blowers can emit
as much as 25 percent raw unburned gasoline in their exhaust. The Los
Angeles chapter of the American Lung Association has produced research to
illustrate how leaf blowers generate as much pollution in one hour as a car
driven for 100 miles. In many Californian cities, there are exchange programs for leaf blowers with engines that don't pollute so
much, but there will still be all the noise.
For more information on how these high polluting engines work, see this
article: www.essortment.com/hobbies/howtwostrokee_sbch.htm.
For more information on other detrimental effects of leaf blowers,
see this article: www.cleanhouston.org/comments/archives/leaf_blowers.htm
Re-mulching Paths
As part of our annual meadow management, I clear the vegetation
from the pathways. I dig out the runners and remove the brambles
near the path so it's comfortable to walk or run a wheelbarrow.
As I chop down or pull up tall plants such as pine trees, dogfennel
(Eupatorium capillifolium), goldenrod (Solidago
spp), and grasses, I lay their stalks along the paths.
Then I apply a generous layer of dead leaves on top of the long
stalks and stomp the leaves to break them into smaller pieces.
Later I'll gather pine needles from the gutters and streets in our
neighborhood. Pine needles on top of the leaf layer will make
an attractive pathway mulch and will last the whole year until next
fall when Mother Nature will again provide the perfect weather for
working and an abundance of mulching materials.
Thinning Out the Ferns
from our Downspout Rain Garden
When I planted this rain garden a couple of years ago, I dug a small
drywell under the area and planted some blue eyed grass, rain lilies, and
two types of ferns--ebony spleenwort (Asplenium platyneuron) and
netted chain ferns
(Woodwardia aerolata). There are more details on this
project in my article
on ferns and this one on rain gardens.
Well, the spleenworts have really been successful and I have plans to
enlarge this rain garden later in the spring, so I pulled most of the
spleenworts from the rain garden. Now I'll be able to see what else is still growing there this spring.
I plan to remove a significant amount of lawn from this area. It
hasn't done all that well and it would be a perfect place for a woodland
path from the front porch over to the pond. More on this project in the next few months.
An added reason for thinning our ferns was a Christmas visit with my
daughter and her husband in Lake
Worth down in south Florida where they are redoing their yard for more
ease of care. My daughter and I planted these ferns all along the narrow area on the side
of the house. We dug out shallow wide holes and placed 5 or 7 ferns
around the edges of the holes and filled the centers with loosened
soil. We built berms around each fern circle so water collects in the
holes, then we mulched the whole area with sustainable eucalyptus mulch.
We
watered after planting, again later in the day, and each of the next two days.
They promised that they'd keep them watered for the next few weeks. They have an incentive
for the ferns to grow well--their house will be on a house tour in March.
Whether your home is on a house tour or not, I recommend more ferns, less
turf grass, and clean edges for ease of care as part of your greener
2008! Happy Green New Year!
Ginny Stibolt would like to hear from readers who have suggestions
and questions. After all, there are more than a few transplanted
gardeners here in northeast Florida trying to figure out what works
and what doesn’t in planting zone 8/9. She's in the process of writing
a book, "Sustainable Gardening for Florida," to be published
by University Press of Florida. You may contact her or read extra
details on her articles and other information posted on her website:
www.transplantedgardener.com.
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